Sunday, September 24, 2023

DG412 bus mixer

 Here is my initial design:



All VCAs are non-inverting and the bus summers are inverting.


These are the phases at various points




VCA 1 output: in phase, OK

Sum A: inverted: OK,

VCA 2: receives inverted input and outputs inverted, OK.

Sum FX A: in phase, OK

Dry out: inverted, OK

Wet out: in phase, OK

So all are as expected. But there's a problem! Dry and wet out are supposed to be mixed, but they are not in phase!

To fix this, we have two options

- Invert all input VCAs (but leave the wet/dry). That way, Sum A and Sum FX A are in phase

- Invert dry out VCA so bot dry and wet are in phase.

The first option is the more "correct", I just need to see if this works well.

Option 1:





VCA outputs are now inverted, but Sum A, Sum FX A, Wet and dry are in phase. This makes the module easier to think about as we don't need to know what is going on inside, phase in is always phase out.


Option 2:


Only Dry out VCA is changed (now inverts). Sum A is still inverted but now wet and dry are both in phase.

CV input

As my CV is 0-5V, but the AS3364 wants 0-2V, I wanted to test if there was any difference between the CV responses when the CV was

1) a direct output from an op amp buffer (actually, a resistor divider tapped at it's center but then buffered with a non-inverting op amp)

2) tapped from the center of a resistor divider (0-5v connected to a 33k + 22k to gnd, effectively making the CV 0-2V)



I used a 0-5V triangle wave, buffered it twice and sent one to a resistor divider with an op amp buffer after it, connected to the CV input of one AS3364 cell, and the second to a resistor divider, tapped at the center and connected to the CV input of a second cell.

I then connected a 1.8V (150k + 27k between 12V and GND) to the signal inputs of the AS3364.

As I've seen earlier, the CV response is not completely linear, but I could see no difference between the two versions. My conclusion is thus that the unbuffered CV version is good enough.


CV Response

As on all the other AS3364 modules, I use a resistor divider (33k + 22k) to divide down 5V to 2V on the CV input.

I got curious about whether or not buffering this CV made any difference so I breadboarded both versions, turns out it does NOT make a difference meaning just two resistors without an op amp buffer works just fine.



Saturday, September 9, 2023

Replacing the door seal on a Miele W1 washing machine

Not exactly a synth thing, but something that definitely needs to be documented. My machine is a WKR771 (WKR771WPS), but the same instructions apply to a lot of Miele models

The seal on my 5.5 year old washing machine broke two weeks ago, leading to the fun situation where the machine filled the towel drawers below with water and leaving us with no washing machine just as our youngest had stopped wearing diapers, meaning A LOT of dirty clothes. 

Today the new seal arrived from Brøndum Elektro (a danish dealer that also sells to Norway). It took a long time, but their price was NOK 630, the only other supplier charged NOK 2300,- (about USD210 at the moment).

Now, to prepare myself I searched the net for how to replace the seal. I found several videos but none covered everything:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6K375JeWVsw

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GLk8lucsmH0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mi_znjVSoHk&t=34s

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j4IPS0wgc74


Uninstalling the old seal

Here is what I had to do:

Remove the top lid

First of all, you need to remove the front panel completely. To do this, start by opening the two small plastic lids on each side covering the screws. I did scratch the lids but it doesn't matter to me as they cannot be seen anyway.





Unscrew the two screws. You can now lift the top lid in front. Lift it all the way up and it can easily be removed.

Remove the display/key panel

Next, remove the soap dispenser, and carefully pull forward on both sides of the plastic that holds the display and keys. Then pull everything up. The wires to the keys/display are a bit short but I managed to put the whole assembly on top of the washer without detaching the wires.



Detach the seal from the front 

The seal is held in place by a steel wire with a spring on it. On my machine the spring is on the right side, by the door hinge, where the seal has a groove for it.


Use a flat head screwdriver to gently lift the spring. Once it is off, pull the seal lose.

Detach the front

The front is held in place by five screws: Two on the door latch, two on top and one large one below the center of the door.







Now, find a T30 and a T20 screwdriver (you use the T20 for everything except the large one). Start by unscrewing the door latch, then the big one and finally the two on top. Once the last screw is removed, the front is lose and will fall forward. Fortunately, it is stopped by two plastic latches. To release these, push them down. You should now be able to lift off the front.





Remove the hoses and lights from the seal

There are two hoses and one light on top of the seal. The left hose can be removed with the white plastic still attached. The center hose must be disconnected from the white plastic as it is too big to go through the hole. Finally, the light can be pushed from below to detach it.


Remove the left hose with the white plastic still attached

Detach the center hose from the white plastic




The white plastic will be reused

Push from below


Release the seal from the inner ring

Finally, you need to release the seal from the machine core. It is attached using a second steel wire, but this time it is tightened by a T20 screw. On my machine this can be reached from below using a long screw driver, and was fairly easy to unscrew. Make a note of how tight it was fastened to make reattaching it easier.


The T20 screw should be reachable from below



Gently pry loose the wire.


One problem I had was that even if I unscrewed the screw, the wire did not pull apart very much. Just pry it loose using a flat head screwdriver.

Remove the seal.

It took a bit of force to remove the seal, but I just started at the side with the screw and worked by way around.



Phew - at this point I started sweating - removing the part wasn't that hard, but I was quite nervous about putting the new back on.


Installing the new seal

Attach the wire to the new seal

Looking at the wire, I realised that I could slide it further apart after removal. I unscrewed the screw even further, so the wire slid easily over the new seal.




Align the seal

This is the single most important thing. You need to make sure the draining holes are at the bottom center and that the holes on top align with the hoses and light. It is nearly impossible to move the seal after you've started putting this on so do it right the first time.

On some of the other videos they made a point of aligning the drainage holes at the bottom of the seal with holes in the inner ring. My machine does not have these holes in the inner ring, yet it is still important to make sure the holes are at the very bottom or water will collect at this point.

Fold the seal over the edge of the inner ring

This was actually much easier than I anticipated. The ring goes into a quite deep groove in the seal, so I just worked my way around, putting everything in place. Make sure the steel wire stays on the outside of the rear flange of the seal all the way. Also, make sure to align the tightening screw so that you can reach it from below.

Make sure the screw is reachable from the bottom


Tighten the steel wire

Just screw the screw until it is as tight as it originally was. This went very smooth in my case.

Reattach the hoses

Putt back the two hoses and the light, make sure that the plastic parts are inserted all the way.

Attach the front panel

The front panel rests on two small white plastic parts. Align those with holes in the bottom metal of the front and gently push the front in place. Attach the two screws on top, the door latch and the big one below the door.



Attach the control panel

The panel slides down and is then pushed backwards until it snaps in place

Attach the seal to the front panel

This was way harder than I thought, but I ended up attaching the seal all the way around without the steel wire - as with the inner ring, I worked my way around while keeping an eye on the first point to make sure it didn't start slipping. I had to do this a few times before it snapped properly in place, but once it was on it stayed where it should



Attach the steel wire

This turned out to be a bit of a nightmare. Once again, you need to align the spring properly for it to fit in the groove by the door hinge.



I started on the left side and attached the top, then worked my way to the bottom while still holding the top in place, and pulling the spring apart slightly. It gets really tight and the wire starts dragging the seal away from the edge. I did at least five tried before I finally managed to get it on with a little help from a flat head screwdriver again (just make sure you don't ruin the seal). Make sure the whole seal looks even, I had to lift the spring a bit to release some parts that were stuck under the wire.


Reattach the lid

I tested the machine prior to this, just in case. The lid reattaches by placing it into two holes in the rear, then closing the front. Screw in the screws and pop in the lids. 


Congratulations!

Monday, September 4, 2023

DG412 mixer vs ch446Q

I've breadboarded a DG412 based mixer to compare it to the CH446Q one.

To make things simpler, I've only breadboarded four inputs and two outputs, with two DG412/413 chips - this is half of everything on the CH446Q board (if we include the output mixer for the two FX channels, which I did when measuring current consumption on the CH446Q.

The biggest difference here, except for the size, is that the DG412 has parallel control inputs (i.e. one signal per switch) and the CH446Q uses SPI-ish. Thus, to compare the power consumption I should really add whatever current a 16 channel i2c port expander uses.

Anyway.

Current consumption

+12V: 12.3mA (24.6mA for full circuit)

-12V: 12.3mA (24.6mA for full circuit)

This is very interesting! If one ignores the fact that the negative current consumption of the CH446Q was very high for one device, this is exactly the same as the CH446Q board. The port expander (PCA9539) has a negligible supply current (200uA).    


Bleed through



Average bleed through is +/-13mV for a +/-10V input.

As with the CH446Q, the switch sees the current from a +/-5V signal, and the output is +/-5V. To compare this with the CH446Q we need to multiply with 1.5 to get the +/-7.5V we have at the outputs, giving us a +/-20mV bleed through. This gives us -51dB, which is definitely not better than the CH446Q. Now, the datasheet says that off isolation should be -68dB which is quite a bit better than this so I'm not sure where the leakage is. 

With TWO inputs of the same signal going to a mixing op amp, I see +/-23mV (=+/-35mV) leakage, which is to be expected I guess, as both switches leak. 

I cannot see any leakage to the neighbouring channel so no visible crosstalk, just bleed through.

Conclusion
The performance of the DG412 vs CH446Q is not that different, neither in terms of current consumption or bleed/crosstalk. What I choose to use comes down to two things:
- board space - The DG412 solution takes up much more space if using DIL chips)
- serviceability - The CH446Q is extremely custom and may be hard to get at a reasonable price whereas the DG412 is available from several suppliers and I have a lot in stock. Also, it is possible to replace a single DG412, if the CH446Q breaks I must replace a whole bus board.

Sunday, September 3, 2023

CH446Q/X testing

Initial testing

 +/-9V supplies are ok but chip gets hot.

3.3V logic ok

SPI bus at 32MHz ok, at 35MHz it drops commands.


Weird way of working

Need to send reset to get chip going, probably syncing SPI bus etc

First send address

Then set MOSI pin to the state we want (which requires us to disable the SPI bus)

Turn on and off strobe for 10ns.


Tested

Mixing two inputs

Signal 3Hz to 35kHz tested ok


Inputs:

Input 1 (internal 0 and 1) ok

Input 2 (internal 2 and 3) ok

Input 3 (internal 4 and 5) ok

Input 4 (internal 6 and 7) ok

Input 5 (internal 8 and 9) ok

Input 6 (internal 10 and 11) ok

Input 7 (internal 12 and 13) ok

Input 8 (internal 14 and 15) ok


Outputs:

Sum A and B ok sums inputs correctly

FX A and B ok, sums inputs correctly


Crosstalk

Visible crosstalk between FX A and B, particularly when input is not connected to anything. Lowerst when input (in 8/internal 15 during testing) is connected to Bus A, more when connected to Bus B

Output til Bus A:

- Crosstalk on FX A: -9.7 to 37.5mV, avg 23.6mV

- Crosstalk on FX B: 1.49 to 22.4mV, avg 10.5mV

Output til Bus B:

- Crosstalk on FX A: -35.9 to 69mV, avg 52.45

- Crosstalk on FX B: -3.7 to 22.4mV, avg 13.2

Input not connected to output:

- Crosstalk on FX A: -56.9 to 90mV, avg 73.45

- Crosstalk on FX B: -19.4 to 38mV, avg 28.7



Crosstalk på Bus A/Bus B:

When everything is off

- Bus A: -22.3mV to 13.8mV, avg 18.1mV

- Bus B: -9.5 to 11.3mV, avg 10.4mV

When other bus is on

- Bus A: -12.0 to 3.5mV, avg 7.75mV

- Bus B: 9.45 to 11.3mV, avg 10.4mV


When output is to FX A and FX B:

Crosstalk on bus A and B looks a bit higher

Tried switching Bus A to input 1 with 33k to gnd, no improvement.


NB: Resolution of the logic probes is around 6mV

If one assumes an input of 2.5V, the highest crosstalk is (90--57)/2=74mV, so signal to crosstalk is attenuated 33 times (i.e. 3% of input). This corresponds to -30dB. Not impressive I think?

I cannot find any info about crosstalk in the CH446Q datasheet, but the MT8816 (which is sort of compatible) has a crosstalk between -45dB (for 2Vpp sine with freq 10MHz) and -85dB (for 10kHz)

-85dB corresponds to a V_in/V_crosstalk ratio of 0.0001

That would mean an input of +/-2.5V would result in crosstalk of 0.25mV

-45dB corresponds to a V_in/V_crosstalk ratio of 0.0056

That would mean an input of +/-2.5V would result in crosstalk of 14mV

This is not that far off from what we see when the input goes to one of the output busses. The max crosstalk is when the input is just blocked. 

PS: In the tests above we always have TWO input signals, as every input is split in two. That means that even when one is passed, the other one is blocked. And when both are blocked, we get the same signal contributing to crosstalk twice. 

Next to test:

- Is crosstalk the same if power is +/-5V as +/-9V?

- Is crosstalk reduced when we only have ONE copy of a signal?

- What is the crosstalk if we sink all non-used inputs to an output? 

- Is the crosstalk the same if I switch to a new mixer board that was not heated as much by accident (!).

- What is the crosstalk on a DG412 (said to be -85dB, with -65dB offness to switch

- And not least, am I able to hear 75mV crosstalk at all? Especially when whatever it passes will be sent to the other filter and probably in some form to the output.


CH446X on breadboard

Testing with direct input of 3.5V, dropped through a 47k resistor before the switch, which gives the same current through the switch as the 2.5V/33k input of the bus mixer circuit.

Switching between Y0 (pin 43) and Y3 (pin 42), connected to an inverting opamp (47k in feedback). 

Crosstalk

Only one input used, resistor before switch so 0 voltage at switch:

Y0: crosstalk is mostly 0.9-6.1mV (avg 2.6mV) with some jumps to as much as -4/16mV. 2.6mV/3600mV = -63dB, which is close to the offness of the DF412 switches)

Y3: crosstalk is mostly 11-16-mV (avg 2.5mV) with some jumps to as much as 0.7/32mV

Only one input used, resistor after switch so full voltage swing at switch:

This does not work at all! No idea why. 

Only one input used, 1.2k resistor before and 47k after switch, almost all of the voltage swing is across the switch:

Crosstalk is now -25mV to 53mV or avg 39mV


Now something is wrong: It seems that the chip locks up and is not able to start properly, supply lines are not +/-5V and it draws a LOT of current. I managed to get it started again once, but after moving around resistors it locked up again.

To test I removed all ground connections from X-inputs. I just read that I should have done the opposite: "CMOS switches and multiplexers are symmetrical devices; their signal input and output terminals are interchangeable, so unused ones should all be considered to be inputs, not outputs. Thus, they should all be grounded."

Also, read this: https://www.ti.com/lit/an/scda011/scda011.pdf?ts=1693203318955&ref_url=https%253A%252F%252Fwww.google.com%252F

I re-added the gnd connections on all unused X and Y inputs, but nothing works. I will order a socket and try with an unused CH446X. 

Second try, bus mixer

I went back and tried the bus mixer again. I didn't see as much crosstalk this time. Here we see input 0 going to output 2, 3 and 6 (FX A, FX B and SUM A) then pause for 200mS. For FX A and SUM A crosstalk is +/-6mV, while FX A has a crosstalk of +/-12mV.


Input is +/-10V going through a 33k/33k voltage divider so the bus mixer sees +/-5V at the input. This is amplified to +/-7.3V at the outputs, so any crosstalk is in relation to this. Right now, we see 6mV crosstalk on 7.3, which is around 61dB. That's ok I think.


Current consumption

The CH446Q and op amps on the mixer board runs rather hot, so I checked the current consumption without the AS3364 installed. The measurements include the op amp on the FX outputs which is external to the board. I got:

- 24mA on the 12V input

- 45-55mA on the -12V input (changing up and down. 45 when no output is on, 55 when one or more outputs are on).

A second mixer board, that has not had the output fix for bus wiring, and has never had any power issues, runs at around 23mA on the -12V input (as well as 24mA on the +12V input), which seems much more correct. Also, it doesn't fluctuate as much.

A TL07x op amp typically consumes 1.4mA. I have 8 of them, which should account for 11.2mA approx, leaving 12.8mA for the crosspoint switch, including some loss at the voltage regulators. It doesn't sound entirely unreasonable. I need to compare this to what DG412 uses.


Full bus mixer

I added two AS3364 quad vca chips and tested the control signals with 0 and 5V (though not anything in between). It worked flawlessly, though the output is perhaps +/- 0.2V below unity gain.

The current usage with two AS3364 is 37mA (+12V) and 55-69mA (-12V), so roughly 10mA more on each supply

Working program

#include <SPI.h>

#include "stdint.h"


#define PIN_CH446Q_STROBE 4

#define PIN_CH446Q_RESET 21


void setup() {

  pinMode(PIN_CH446Q_STROBE, OUTPUT);

  pinMode(PIN_CH446Q_RESET, OUTPUT);

  pinMode(11, OUTPUT);


  digitalWriteFast(PIN_CH446Q_STROBE, LOW);

  digitalWriteFast(PIN_CH446Q_RESET, LOW);

  delay(1);

  digitalWriteFast(PIN_CH446Q_RESET, HIGH);

  delay(1);

  digitalWriteFast(PIN_CH446Q_RESET, LOW);

}


void setSwitch(uint8_t in, uint8_t out, uint8_t on){

  uint8_t address = out * 16 + in;


  // We need to use begin and end to regain control of the pin

  // after the address is transfered, without this we cannot 

  // set the switch mode. 

  // 32MHz is the highest stable speed I was able to make work.

  SPI.begin();

  SPI.beginTransaction(SPISettings(32000000, MSBFIRST, SPI_MODE0)); 

  SPI.transfer(address);

  SPI.end();


  // After writing the address, we need to set the MOSI pin to the 

  // wanted state of the switch, 0 for off and 1 for on, before

  // strobing the strobe.

  pinMode(11, OUTPUT);

  digitalWriteFast(11, on);


  // Strobe makes the switch... switch.

  digitalWriteFast(PIN_CH446Q_STROBE, HIGH);

  delayNanoseconds(20);

  digitalWriteFast(PIN_CH446Q_STROBE, LOW);


void loop() {

  setSwitch(0, 6, 1);      

  delay(500);

  setSwitch(1, 6, 1);      

  delay(500);      

  setSwitch(0, 6, 0);      

  delay(500);

  setSwitch(1, 6, 0);      

  delay(500);

}